To eat tapas in Cádiz is to enjoy a Spanish foodie experience in its purported city of origin. But what’s the destination of choice for this Spanish tradition that has taken the world by storm? A classic spot in the old fishermen’s quarter of Cádiz. Here’s how the story unfolds in Diary of a Solo Cruiser: Part 4.
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Gliding through the squares of Cádiz, past colourful souvenir shops, I had a firm goal to eat tapas. Popular legend has it the Spanish tradition of eating small portions of food – tapas – was born in Cádiz. “Tapa” means “lid” or “cover”. One of the most well-known of tapas’ many origin myths is the story of King Alfonso XIII who ordered wine at a tavern in Cádiz. Being a windy city, the bartender covered the cup with a slice of ham to keep the dust and sand out. My story of tapas in Cádiz played out differently, as you can imagine.
Diary of a Solo Cruiser: Part 4
Also in the “Diary…” series
Cádiz was a fascinating stop on my solo cruise itinerary. Founded by the Phoenicians some 3000 years ago, Cádiz is considered one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements. This part of Andalucian Spain is set on a narrow peninsula, with an imposing cathedral, breezy, tree-lined squares and quirky spots for tapas.
Much like Venice, I wandered in no hurry, losing myself in the colours and slow pace of Cádiz’s luminous squares. Tired, I finally sought refuge in a corner bar in the old fishermen’s quarter of La Viña, the destination of choice for tapas. Serendipity had struck once more on my travels. This time round, it had brought me to a classic spot in Cádiz.
Tapas in Cádiz
Bull-fighting photos, posters and illustrations adorned the tiled walls of Taberna Casa Manteca. Ran by the sons of a matador, the characterful spot drew me in immediately. I sat down at the counter, feeling a little self-conscious. For all my independence and solo travel experience, being by myself in a bar was one I hadn’t done yet.
Friendly locals in Cádiz
I wasn’t alone at the bar for long. Just as the bartender handed me a menu, there was a rustle of movement behind me. I turned to see an elderly man shrugging off his coat.
“Hola,” he smiled warmly. I smiled back.
His name was Fernando. He was a gaditano local who soon recommended two options as I looked over the tapas menu. That was fine by me. I was pleased to have some local insight on what tapas to order in Cádiz.
“Chicharonnes,” the bartender said, placing the famed house tapa on grease-proof paper in front of me. The thin slices of pork were drizzled with lemon juice and salt. It had a subtle zing and was surprisingly addictive for someone who rarely ate pork. Next to it was a portion of goat cheese topped with marmalade. I tossed them both down with a glass of local wine.
Fernando sipped his drink and regaled me with his own travel stories, including the time he took off to Venezuela. Before he downed his drink and left, he handed me his card. He told me to call him if I needed anything at all for the rest of my time in Cádiz. I handed one of my cards back, feeling the welcoming spirit gaditano locals are famed for. No wonder a tourist survey conducted by the Organization of Consumers and Users on favourite Spanish cities ranked Cádiz among the top 7 destinations for hospitality and friendliness.
The aftermath
Back in London, I received an email with a WeTransfer notice from Fernando. Dear Davida, it read, I hope you could enjoy this book. Greetings from Fernando, the old man in the old Tavern el Manteca in Cadiz. He’d attached a 99-page book in Spanish. Now, I speak exactly three and half sentences of Spanish. But who’s to say I won’t level up to fluency one day and read this gifted book?
Hello Fernando, I typed back, it was wonderful to meet you in Cadiz. Thank you for the great chat and this book! Greetings from London.
I closed my email, smiling.
Every time I tell my story of tapas, I will remember “the old man in the old tavern” in Cádiz .
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Beautiful story to read, especially on a gloomy January day! Precioso!
It was such a highlight of my time in Cádiz – and I just had to pass on the warmth ☺. Thanks for reading and commenting, Dina!